My first weekend
Topic: Guatemala
Time to check in…sorry that it has been a while and much has happened since I last wrote something. Sorry, but more pictures will have to wait so that I may conserve space on my blog.
My first weekend came and my seminarian buddy, Brion, and I went to Lake Atitlan and visited four cities there. One of them being Santiago where Fr. Stanley Rother worked with the Mayan people and was eventually murdered by the government. But first information about Lake Atitlan. It is like a crater surrounded by two volcanoes and mountains. It is fed by the water that comes from the rains on the mountains. Also, the mountains come pretty much up to the shore so the towns that are on the lake are pretty much built on the side of the mountain. All the cities, except the main city--Panajachel--can only be reached by boat. One of the ways to make a living on the lake is to fish, but there are only three types of fish in the lake…two indigenous species and black bass that, America, I think, introduced to try and make the lake a hotspot for sport fishermen. What ended up happening was the black bass fed on the other fish and the hotspot never made.
The first town we visited (can’t remember the name) was a small Mayan town that, as all the others, produces textiles by hand in a loom. The dress is particular to this town. The men and women wear a type of skirt with a shirt specific to their gender. The skirt turns out to be a long piece of material that is wrapped around the body at the waste and tied off with a belt. Not much else to say about this little town except a story. When our boat arrived at the docks there was a man about 40 years old soaping himself up getting ready to rinse himself off in the lake. It was interesting, but hey free water for a bath why not?
The second town was Santiago. As we entered the city I saw the corn fields reach all the way to the bank which was interesting for me to see. The city was built on a flatter part of the mountain so that it is easier to get around without getting too winded. Our tour guide brought us to the see the Mayan God, Maximón (mashimon), where we had to pay Q2 (~$0.27) to see him and the men who hold vigil with him 24-7. Maximón is a “god” who was a man pre-Spaniard time who helped the Mayan people out. This God’s favorite things are smokes (cigars or cigarettes) and drink…don’t worry this guy is well older than 21. After this we went up to see the church where Fr. Stanley’s heart and blood are laid to rest as well as the room that is now a chapel where his life was taken. For me, it was quite a moving experience to see this place. I do plan on returning to stay longer and talk with the people about Fr. Stanley to hear their story with him. I have read two books that tell his story; now I want to hear their side. Not much else was done in Santiago this trip, except to see the different dress for the Mayan’s here. The women wear basically the same thing as those in the other town, but on their head they wrap a long piece of material that is 1-2 inches wide around their head ‘til it makes a kind of halo. Men wear vertically striped shorts that are made there in Santiago with a shirt of similar material and a regular type hat.
San Pedro the third town we visited is basically a hippie town now...many came and settled there. That is at least what they told me, because I didn't see many running around. There wasn't much to see according to our guide...we only ate there and saw an avocado tree and coffee tree. The one thing that was interesting was that while we were eating a cat jumped up in our laps several times. I guess it was used to receiving food from diners. Nothing much else exciting happened in San Pedro...at least worth writing about.
Panajachel was merely the city of rest for us. We did nothing but wonder the streets looking for the church and then our way back to the hotel after Mass and supper Saturday night. One last thing about the lake that I thought was amazingly interesting...as we crossed the lake I would look out in the water and see what I presumed to be trash, but later found out was pomace from the volcanos that surround the lake. I had forgotten that pomace is greatly made up of air and thus floats in water...or at least this pomace did.
Finally, on Sunday we traveled to Chichicastenango which is basically a market city...literally. Everystreet within a 20 block sqaure was lined with open air stores that funny enough pretty much sold the same things. As a matter of fact, Brion was looking for a bedspread and we found out that the times people at our store would leave to go get some from "stock" they were really going to get them from other stores in the street. I said nothing as did Brion, but I wanted to laugh so hard. We found a Catholic Church in the middle of all the hub-bub of the market, which was just as busy as the market. People were constantly praying and adding votive candles to special tables or raised platforms--these platforms were only 3 - 4 inches tall down the center aisle of the church so you had to watch where you walked else be in danger of going up in smoke. People would kneel at these platforms and pray as they added their open votive candles to it. Also, there were pray-ers outside of the church constantly with thuribles--insensors--made from coffee cans that kept a constant flow of smokey insense bellowing around the door of the church.
My weekend of excitment did not end with roaming the streets of Chichicastinango, oh no. The driver of the van for the return trip, which can barely hold 12 people including the driver, tried to pack 14 people in the van. Now remember I am in the van and my friend who though is thinner than me is no small man himself. Neededless to say it was not going to work, though the driver kept telling me to skoot over. My repeated reply was "How? Please tell me how?" as I showed him there was no space between Brion and myself leaving only enough room on the bench seat for another person's left butt cheek. Finally, he talked to another bus driver who allowed me to get on the bus, thus separating Brion and myself so that all could get home. We both finally returned to Antigua and swore never to use that travel agency again.
Posted by Big Mike
at 12:39 PM CDT
Updated: Thursday, 29 June 2006 3:43 PM CDT